Right on the Monet!
Lucy Daltroff visits the stunning coastal resort of Étretat in Normandy, the inspiration for French Impressionists and home to one of the most unusual gardens in the world
It’s easy to imagine Monet setting up his easel and painting the wonderful views in a series of paintings from the small, but charming French seaside resort of Étretat, located in his native Normandy.
The erosion of the chalk cliffs has resulted in spectacular arch formations, which are a gift to artists at any time of the day.
In fact, it was this stunning backdrop that features in Monet’s famous painting The Cliff, Étretat: Sunset in 1883 and inspired dozens of other works.
Étretat is just a 30-minute drive from the port of Le Havre, but I am not here just to see the rock face or the charming old town with its lovely hotels and restaurants.
Rather, my main purpose is to visit the famous Les Jardins D’ Étretat, which are reopening for the season.
The road from the centre of the town is quite steep and initially just a small church, the famous Chapel of Our Lady of the Guard, built in 1856, is visible, shielding the summit. Turn the corner however, and just a bit further down the path the entrance to Les Jardins dramatically appears, revealing what can be best described as something somewhere between an agricultural Alice in Wonderland and an art gallery.
Its position on the side of a hill means that it consists of gently descending winding paths, all with the stunning bay providing a remarkable backdrop. Features include a tree with a big wind-up key half-way up the bark. Turn the key and music plays. A well-trimmed group of bushes represents the movements of the ocean with its swell and tides. Nearby, a planted path leads to a group of wicker figures, one hugging what represents the last tree on earth.
The whole place is a haven for birds too and their constant song adds to an overall feeling of peace and tranquillity.
In other corners, strangely-shaped stone sculptures shimmer in the sun. The most dramatic feature to my mind is the series of large sculpted heads, which lie face-up on the topiary and have been produced by the Spanish artist Samuel Salcedo. Each countenance is different and each displays its own expressive set of facial expressions.